(Note: this is Part 1 of a 2 part series on the Central Valley Greenway. You can find Part 2 here.)
There are moments on the Central Valley Greenway (CVG) when you could be on the wonderful Galloping Goose Trail in the wilds of Vancouver Island – and other moments when you are just half a metre away from certain death. Oddly, these moments are sometimes just minutes apart. That’s how startling and abrupt the transitions are on this ambitious, largely wonderful, but also deeply flawed bike route.
The CVG runs all the way from the New Westminster Quay, via Burnaby, to Science World in Vancouver – a total distance of 24 km. It could be the perfect solution for commuters – if only it weren’t for the downright UGLY bits. Most of these are in the New West to Burnaby section, the first 15 km. I’m going to talk about that section in this post, and go on to the better part (from Burnaby to Science World) in a subsequent post.
Signage on the CVG
The signage on the CVG is AWESOME – some of the best I have ever seen on any bike route anywhere. It was not always this way. I went on the inaugural ride on the happy summer day when the route was officially opened.
On this day, the signage was far from complete. But clearly there had been a mad scramble to get everything ready for the Grand Opening – so there were several paper signs taped to light posts along the way! I found this quite endearing: it showed that they really tried.
And that’s the almost poignant thing about the CVG. They really, really tried. In fact, you’ve just gotta give them full marks for trying. The spirit was so very willing – but unfortunately, the execution was sometimes lacking. At times the route soars impressively to the heights, like this bridge – but at other times, it really, really sucks.
Starting off in New Westminster
The CVG is like the little girl in the poem: “When she was good, she was very, very good – but when she was bad, she was horrid!”
The first part of the CVG combines both the very, very good, and the horrid. Starting off on Columbia Street from the quay is not an auspicious start. You’re on Columbia Street in central New West – an interesting, historical place to be – but no place to be on a bike, the painted bike lanes notwithstanding! I am going to put in suggestions on how to make the CVG all it clearly aspires to be, in case anyone in authority ever reads this post (and I will do my best to make sure they do). Here’s the first:
Suggestion # 1: Make the Columbia Street part a physically separated bike route (see for example what has been done on Dunsmuir Street in Vancouver).
After cycling in heavy traffic up the hill past Royal Columbian Hospital, you reach the happy, happy spot where you turn right onto Sherbrook Street. From here on you are on quiet residential streets all the way to Hume Park.
Hume Park is one of the Good parts of the CVG, as you might guess from the word “park.” It’s regrettably short, but fun while you’re in it. Two items of note in the park:
- The one and only washroom on the route is in this park.
- The route runs right by an off-leash dog park. This is not usually a problem. However, the day I first took Maggie on this route, an unleashed dog attacked her and bit her hand. Only her thick winter cycling gloves saved her from losing a thumb. She did end up with 10 stitches in her hand, and at our wedding a week later she had a large bandage around her hand (fortunately the dog chose her right hand).
After Hume Park a pedestrian crossing gets you across the very busy Columbia Street. Then you get to one of the Bad bits – blessedly short. You’re on a very narrow sidewalk, next to Columbia Street. Cyclists are supposed to travel in both directions here, and also a sign requests that cyclists yield to “peds”. It’s all just an accident waiting to happen – one day a cyclist or pedestrian could be pushed off into the stream of very fast-moving traffic.
Brunette River Natural Area
Assuming you have made it this far, you are now in for a treat. Turn sharp left off the sidewalk, and suddenly you are in cyclist heaven. This part of the route meanders for about 3 km next to the Brunette River. It’s just as stunningly peaceful and beautiful here as the Galloping Goose Trail – and yet you are actually travelling between two major highways, Lougheed and the TransCanada.
Watch this video for a sense of what it feels like to be cycling here:
I only have one quibble with this part: there are no lights. This effectively eliminates the CVG as a commuting route from New West to Vancouver in the winter.
Suggestion # 3: Put lights along the CVG in the Brunette River Natural Area (like the lamp posts in the other parts of the route)
The really, really ugly
You will find yourself feeling relaxed and happy next to the Brunette River. You may feel that the bad bits are behind you, and that now you can relax and enjoy the GREENway. That would be a mistake, because soon you will pop out of the forest, and quickly find yourself at the intersection of Cariboo and Government Streets. The photo of a train, bus and cars (and a very unsurprising absence of cyclists) at the top of this post was taken at this intersection.
Once you have waited for trains and traffic, and managed to get though this horrible intersection, you are on Government Street for one block. This is a brief respite from the horror, as a separated bike route has been erected here, to protect cyclists from the traffic. No wonder this guy looks so happy!
But at the end of this block, you hit the truly UGLY part of the CVG. Government Street becomes Winston Street, and simultaneously becomes a truck route. Granted you have a fairly wide bike lane to travel in, but you are right besides heavy, speeding traffic.
You totally have to check out this video – it shows the very, very worst of the CVG – one of those moments when, as I said, you are just half a metre away from certain death, while on the “Central Valley Greenway.” This video was not even taken at rush hour. I ask you, what part of this scenario is reminiscent of a green valley?
Seriously, is this safe cycling for everyone? Would you want your grandma or your child this close to a semi? While I was negotiating this horrible part – which goes on for a full 5 km – I had to chuckle as I remembered the words in the official CVG Route Map:
“Most sections are suitable for all kinds of walking and wheeling (pedestrians, … cyclists, wheelchair users … )”
Yeah, right! I’m here to tell you that even cyclists were scarce on this part of the CVG – and I damn sure never passed any wheelchair users!
Suggestion # 4: Put a physically separated bike lane on Winston (as has been done on Dunsmuir Street in Vancouver); the north side is wide enough for a two-way separated bike lane.
Finally you get to the part of Winston Street where the route goes onto the sidewalk, and if you have an ounce of religion in you, you thank your God. A block later you reach the wonderful pedestrian bridge.
Just in front of the bridge is one of the whimsical bits of practical (impractical?) art that have been installed alongside the CVG. It’s kind of a bike rack, but an arty version. Not particularly useful, as no one in their right mind would actually leave their bike parked in a spot like this. But nevertheless, pleasing in a totally useless, arty kind of way. Like the hand-taped signs when the CVG opened, these bits of art remind you that somebody, somewhere is really, really trying.
And here’s the Good News: once you have cycled up this bridge, and are sailing down the other side, all of the truly UGLY parts of the CVG are behind you. From now on, it’s all downhill, metaphorically speaking. To read about the rest of this trail, click here.
UPDATE: Please see the very encouraging response to this critique, from Translink’s Planning Department – although I have to add that as of April 2014, none of these promises have actually been fulfilled.
Read about many more bike trails here.
Buying Used Bikes!
I have written an extremely comprehensive guide to buying used bikes. This little book is a labor of love, my response to the huge need for guidance on how to find bargain-priced bikes online, and also on how to avoid being ripped off. I have tried my hardest to give as much value for money as possible, and have included everything I could possibly think of to help you with your bike bargain hunting. You can buy it from Amazon as a beautiful printed book, or as a useful Kindle book.
More posts about cycling trails:
And here’s my Guide to Cycling in Sooke!
Here’s my Guide to Cycling the wonderful Lockside Trail on Vancouver Island.
Here’s Part 1 of a whole series on the joys of cycling in Montreal.
Here’s a trail to avoid at costs in Richmond (unless you have nerves of steel and the cycling skills of a super hero).
Here’s a really cool family trail in Richmond – the West Dyke Trail.
Here are a whole lot of trails in the Lower Seymour Conservation Reserve – some of them challenging, some of them family-friendly.
Here’s an exceptional trail in Port Coquitlam, the Traboulay PoCo Trail – it offers a variety of terrains, distance without hills, a play park, a pub, and just generally fun for the whole family – even history buffs.
And here’s a post called Deer Lake Park: Cyclist’s Paradise for the Whole Family in the Heart of Burnaby.
Here you can read all about the Central Valley Greenway, an ambitious trail that runs from New Westminster to Vancouver, via Burnaby.